St. Lucia - 1999
Lynne's Introduction
Think of a postcard. Not the kind where the colors are muted and washed out and the figures have no definite outline. Think of the ones with the vibrant vivid rich colors that actually make you wish you were there. Where the water is so blue you want to go there to see if it really is that way and everything is so pristine it sparkles. That’s Saint Lucia. It is without question the greenest and most picturesque island I’ve ever been to.
But, as beautiful as the island is it's beauty pales in comparison to the beauty of its people. For truly, the island is most spectacular with its waterfalls, rainforest, volcano, and little coves nestled between towering hillsides but the people of Saint Lucia make my little "postcard" come to life with their warmth , friendliness and "I’ve known you all my life " feeling.
On some trips , when my husband and I are sitting in the airport waiting for our flight home I have this urgency that I want to be home now! Only when I leave the Grand Cayman and the people we’ve become friends with there over the years do I get a tightness in my throat and tears start to form. I can’t say that any longer for Saint Lucia has taken a part of my heart. Because of its people; Mark , Paul , Charlie, Rusty, Keith, Steve, Marcus and Erol the dive masters who made each dive a great adventure and had as much fun showing us different creatures to Eget my shopping buddy and dive master whose smile was so contagious…. I miss them all terribly and to think I would never see them again leaves me with despair. They are such wonderful people. If Paul Clery were to ask me how do I feel about being home, my reply to Paul would be it’s a "massa" feeling Paul. I can’t describe it. All I keep thinking of is our return trip to our new little piece of paradise. Until we meet again………Lynne
We left Baltimore Washington International at about 8:15am aboard an Air Jamaica Airbus 320. Our flight went to Montego Bay for about a 1 1/2 hour stop and a change of planes. We had to wait for a couple of connecting passengers for almost an hour. The next leg of the flight was aboard another Airbus 320 that stopped in Barbados for around another 1 1/2 hour layover, no change of planes. We finally were allowed to re-board the plan for our final destination - St. Lucia. There are two airports on St. Lucia. The larger airport is on the south end of the island. This is where we landed. There is a smaller airport near the north end of the island in Castries. Smaller Jets and prop aircraft land there.
We finally arrived at about 5:30pm quite tired and ready to check into our room and grad a quick meal. After a fairly quick check through customs, getting our luggage (ALL OF IT ) and going through immigration, we walked out to find our ride to Sandals St. Lucia. There are two Sandals on the island (Sandals La Toc and Sandals Halcyon) separated by a fifteen to twenty minute shuttle. However, both Sandals are 1-1 1/2 hours from our airport via windy narrow roads. After checking in with the Sandals desk in front of the airport we, along with two other couples was loaded in a small van and started on our way. After 1 1/2 hours and several rain storms we arrived at the resort.
Check in was fairly fast and we were taken to our room. It was about a 5 minute walk from our room to the lobby and another minute or two from the lobby to the water sports area where we would have to go to catch the dive boat two or three times each day. We decided that that was too much for a couple of fifty year old divers to walk and the next day changed our room to a unit that was only 2 minutes from water sports and 2 to 4 minutes from most of the restaurants. Additionally, it was a beach front instead of a beach view unit; much better.
Diving at Sandals
Sunday was to be our first day of diving at Sandals. First, let's get one thing straight. My wife, Lynne, and I would not have picked St. Lucia as a dive vacation destination. We read a lot on the Web and talked to a few people that dived St. Lucia. Everything we heard or read lead us to believe that all the diving on the Island was very restrictive. We are both used to diving our own computer profiles and not being lead around by the divemasters. Most of our recent diving over the past 7 years has been on Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac and Bonaire. We inherited this trip and since we were going, we just relinquished to the fact that we were going to have the best time we possibly could, no matter what.
Sunday
Everyone that dives at Sandals, and all of the other resorts as far as we could tell, have to go through a quick check-out. For most people at Sandals this check-out is done in a small pool in back of the watersports building. We E-mailed ahead and were to have our check-out early Sunday in order to make the 9:00 am boat. As things turned out, our check-out instructor was just late enough that we were not going to be able to check-out and make that boat. We talked for a while, discussed our recent diving history and since there were only three divers scheduled for the boat, he decided that our check-out would be done as an actual dive. Since all dives on St. Lucia are guided, there was not too much for him to fear.
Dive 1 - Leslie M - 63 feet for 51 minutes (no camera)
As it turned out, our first dive was on an upright wreck of about 107 feet in length and sitting in about 64 FSW. It has been in the water for about 10 years and had a lot of growth and fish activity on it. Our divemaster was Charlie. We dropped to the bottom at the stern of the wreck and began working our way up the port side toward the bow all the time searching intently for everything and anything. About halfway along the boar I noticed something move out of the corner of my eye. I searched closely for any additional movement, none was to follow. Then, just as I was about to move on, I spotted it, a black Longlure Frogfish sitting on what appeared to be a dark brown or dark red sponge. This was the first Frogfish that I have personally found on my own. I have had several pointed out by divemasters on Bonaire, but never actually spotted on my own. It was great. I got the attention of the rest of the divers and showed them my find. Charlie later said that it was the first Frogfish he had seen on over a year. We continued on the dive and found cleaner shrimp, a small red lobster, at least fifty male Sergeant Majors protecting their eggs, Banded Coral shrimp, Arrow Crabs and all the "normal STUFF".
Dive 2 - 26 feet for 38 minutes - Bay of Pigs, north side
Steven & Eget were our divemasters. Saw some Lizardfish, banded Coral shrimp, several Fire Worms other non-notable STUFF.
Monday
Dive 3 - 63 feet for 33 minutes - Leslie M
We tried to dive another larger wreck than the one we did on Sunday but the mooring was missing. Since were several other divers that were all fired up for a wreck dive and I did not have a chance to take pictures of the Black Frogfish on Sunday I suggested that we return to the Leslie M. It was my plan to proceed along the port side of the ship to the place I found the Frogfish on the previous day. When I was nearing that point where I was going to start my serious search we heard our divemaster calling us to the stern area so back we went. He pointed out a large 5 foot barracuda and motioned us to follow him. We proceeded past the prop, along the starboard side of the ship, past the bow and then along the port side of the wreck toward my destination. Just when we were approaching where I thought the frog fish would be we were herded to the deck area. No Frogfish on this dive. We spent about 5 minutes on the deck area and all too soon the dive was over. This divemaster (can not recall his name) was much more limiting than Charlie was on our previous visit. I got some shots of some Feather Dusters, shrimp and Sergeant Majors.
Dive 4 - 37 feet for 43 minutes - Bay of Pigs, south side
Not too much to report on this dive. We saw lots of Fireworms of various sizes, a large Spotted Scorpionfish and a Spotted Drum.
Dive 5 - 41 feet for 45 minutes - Virgin Cove
This was our first afternoon dive. Dive master was Paul. On these dives there are often divers that are doing resort dives or referral dives and are usually done in a fairly shallow area which are usually not too interesting. Lynne and I could not do anything about the selected sites so we just went with the flow and decided to enjoy our dives, no matter what. We always dive slowly, look small, and usually see big. We find interesting things and critters when most other divers don't see anything. On this dive we saw another Spotted Scorpionfish, a Basket Star, more Fireworms and the "usual STUFF".
Tuesday
Dive 6 - 69 feet for 39 minutes - Virgin Point
Divemasters were Paul and Eget. This was about a 1 knot drift dive. We saw our first 2 turtles, a Juvenile Spotted Drum, several Morays and a lot of brightly colored soft corals and sponges.
Dive 7 - 29 feet for 47 minutes - Piti Thru (supposed to translate to Tiny Asshole)
Divemasters were Paul and Keith. On this dive we saw our first Flying Gurnard. This one, however, just swam off and did not open it's wings, several Juvenile Spotted Drums, a Mature Spotted Drum and 3 large lobsters.
Dive 8 - 26 feet for 52 minutes - Bay of Pigs north
Our dive master was Mark. This was a very shallow dive but was a lot of fun. We saw our first octopus out in the open, Juvenile Trunkfish, our first Snake Eel, a Queen Angel and several Spotted Eels.
Dive 9 - Our only night dive - Rusty's Cove - 17 feet for 61 minutes
Divemaster was Markus. This was our first, and as it turned out, only night dive. Lynne and I had the boat to ourselves. It was great. As soon as we hit the bottom we started seeing Starfish making their way along the sand. there were dozens of them. We never saw any during the day. I decided to take a couple of pictures of these guys and found that my strobes did not work. As it turned out, in my haste to get to the boat on time I failed to put the flash connector on the camera's hot shoe. STUPID. I folded up the strobes and proceeded with the dive. Additional sightings included the biggest Pufferfish I had ever seen, several Slipper Lobsters lots of Juvenile Trunkfish, lots of small Spotted Moray Eels, hundreds of Brittle Stars and several Basket Stars.
Wednesday
Dive 10 - 57 feet for 46 minutes - Malgre Toute
Divmasters were Markus and Rusty. Not a lot of fish to mention. This dive was a slow drift dive, about 3/4 knot, at the base of one of the two Pitons. There was a lot of soft coral and sponges including Orange Elephant Ear Sponges. A nice slow easy dive.
Dive 11 - 46 feet for 55 minutes - Fairyland
Divemaster was Charlie. All the normal STUFF including several Trunkfish, our first Sand Eel and lots of Fireworms.
Dive 12 - 24 feet for 69 minutes - Bay of Pigs south
Divemaster was Charlie. This was one of our best shallow dives. We were treated to Octopus, our first and only Squid, another Sand Eel, two Snake Eels, Spotted and Golden Moray Eels, a Peacock Flounder, and a Brown Doris Slug. Neither Charlie or I have ever seen a Slug of this variety.
Thursday
Dive 13 - 62 feet for 45 minutes - Leslie M (again)
Divemasters were Rusty and Markus. I was glad to visit the Leslie M again. With Charlie as our divemaster I knew that if the black Frogfish was on that wreck I was going to find it and shoot a lot of pictures. We worked our way along the starboard side of the wreck, around the bow all the time looking for Frogfish of any color. About halfway down the port side, I motioned to Lynne that I was sure that this was the area I saw the black Frogfish several days ago. It was less than 30 seconds later that she spotted it. To me, it appeared that it was in almost the same place as before. Lynne was so excited that she, unfortunately, finned up a lot of sand from the bottom. After letting most of the sand settle, I shot about 12 pictures of the little guy. After I got my pictures I only then got the rest of the group and showed them our prize. I then proceeded to shoot the rest of the roll of film in my camera on other critters up on the deck. Nice dive!
Dive 14 - 31 feet for 47 minutes - Back to Bay of Pigs south
Divemasters were Rusty and Markus . Not much to report on this dive, a couple of Fire Clams, Trunkfish etc.
Friday
Dive 15 - 63 feet for 52 minutes - Fairyland Wall
Divemasters were Paul and Erol. Again, not too much new or exciting to report. However, it was on this dive that I found a Flying Gurnard with it's wings fully outstretched, a great sight.
Dive 16 - 47 feet for 52 minutes - Anse Chastnet - Turtle Reef
Divemasters were Paul and Erol. Saw several eels of different varieties including Snake Eels and several Spotted Drums.
Dive 17 - 30 feet for 53 minutes - Honeymoon Suite
Divemasters were Rusty and Steven. A nice dive. Saw Juvenile Trunkfish, Eels, Slipper Lobsters, and Angelfish.
Saturday - our last dive day
Dive 18 - 75 feet for 62 minutes - Virgin Cove
Divemasters were Erol and Markus. This was our last day of diving. For some reason we did not make notes of what we saw. I guess we were just thinking of leaving the next afternoon and forgot to log what we saw. I do remember it was a nice dive.
Dive 19 - 26 feet for 47 minutes - Bay of Pigs north
Divemasters were Markus and Erol. Lynne says she saw a baby "Thing". That is what Erol called it. I didn't see it and don't know what she saw. Additionally, we saw a large Green Moray, lots of Juvenile and Mature Trunkfish and another Snake Eel.
Conclusions
While we probably would not return to Sandals or St. Lucia again, it would be because of the limitations that the island operators tend to place on the divers. We were told that ALL dives must be made with a local Divemaster and shore dives are limited to those with divemasters and only at a few resorts. However, the divemasters and all the personnel at Sandals St. Lucia were some of the greatest, friendliest, fun loving people we have ever met. They truly made our stay one that we will not soon forget. We will miss them.
Ed & Lynne